Albarino for All Seasons
It seems like so long ago… or at least much warmer ago. The Yankees were about to win the final game of the World Series and I arranged to meet a friend at La Fonda del Sol for a few glasses of wine and some tapas. The company was marvelous, the food delightful, and the wine was fantastic: the under-recognized Albariño from Rias Baixas.
Having returned from a trip to the southern coast of Spain this summer, I was delighted to sample something to bring me back to those warm, lazy days of July and August… The Albariño did not disappoint. Rioja is plentiful and omnipresent on most restaurant lists - but Albariño? It’s like the forgotten Spanish wine. Not quite the red-headed stepchild (too delicious for that) but definitely more forgotten. I first had Albariño when I worked on a design project for this very website. See the wine glasses at the top which look sort of like footsteps? They are meant to represent the Camino de Santiago, an annual pilgrimage across Spain to the city of Santiago de Compostela in the region of Galicia (where Rias Baixas is located). Anyway, I loved the wine then and have since looked for it whenever there is a Spanish section on the wine list.
I find Albariño a pleasant, crisp white with citrus notes and best of all, to me it tastes just like summer. It’s not meant to age, so it’s got that fun, outward and friendly feeling when you open it. It’s not a huge commitment, it’s just fun. That being said, it is more complex than a table wine and it really compliments food. The waiter at La Fonda brought over a 2008 Adegas D’Altamira. It was the only Albariño from Rias Baixas on the list - and it is perfect with the food. It paired particularly well with the shrimp, and of course with potatas bravas (who can resist those in any season?).
I have read a lot lately about how white wines, specifically in restaurants, are many times served over-chilled. That when the wine is too cold you can’t taste the complexities. I don’t think the D’Altamira was ever too cold, but I did notice how it evolved as it opened up and sat on the table. If you can find this wine - or any Albariño from Rias Baixas - the next time you’re eating shellfish, spicy or Spanish flavors, it is a true winner!
Kimberley Sanderson-Hutfilz is a principal at Celandine, Inc., a New York City based graphic design firm which focuses on art, food and non-profit communications,
http://www.celandinedesign.com.
