Spanish Albarino at ease in South America
My travels in Spain showed Spaniards to be generally easy-going and spontaneous. From the taxi queue outside Bernabéu Stadium after watching a Real Madrid game to vying for a plush oceanside cushion for cocktails at La Kasbah in Barcelona, the denizens of two of my favorite cities of the world were simply cool. It turned out that the fellow sitting next to us at the futbol game was going our way, so he drove us back to Plaza Mayor, and in Barcelona I couldn’t believe that the waiter let us sprawl on the prime-location seating for hours just nibbling on snacks and sangria. No bottle service requirements here!
So it was with delight, but not surprise, that I found the two Albariños, hailing from an hour’s flight away in Rías Baixas, to be just as lively and versatile as the people who we met in its native land.
I met my friend in Hell’s Kitchen for a pan-latin dinner. She’d lived in the building next to Agua Dulce since it opened, so she knew it was an all-too rocking place, but hadn’t yet been in for a bite. Scanning the menu when I arrived, I was excited to see a number of crudo options, and frankly I could have made an entire meal of the various fresh raw fish dishes presented by Chef Ulrich Sterling (notably of Pipa and Sushi Samba 7 restaurants). We chose the salmon ceviche and a raw oyster special appetizer.
My dining companion was in the mood for the calabaza squash, stuffed in Poblano peppers and topped with Romesco sauce and Tetilla, a cheese from milk of the happy cows hanging out not far from where Albariño grapes are grown. Excellent, I love all those things. Both the waiter and the Chef, who kindly came by to say hi, recommended the coconutty Moqueca Mixto seafood stew. Menu set, we asked for our wine and gawked at the happy hour revelers reflected in the mirrored wall, breakdancing to the Culture Club blasting through the refined-looking dining room.
We tried two Albarinos: Martin Codax and Terras Gauda O Rosal, both from the 2008 vintage. This time I was surprised. The two wines from the same grape variety and region were quite distinct, and had their own influence on the food. First came the salmon ceviche in citrus oil. We tried the classic Martin Codax first and found its herby freshness and slight zing to be a nice contrast to the rich fish.
I liked the Terras Gauda better with the oysters than with the salmon. The beautiful bivalves had been splashed with an unexpected soy glaze, which was fine but lingered longer than the oyster flavor. The tartness of the Terras Gauda pleasantly whisked that off the palate and reset it for another oyster, this time tipped to let some of the additives out.
Both wines partnered well with the squash-stuffed poblanos, which were caramelized from cooking and further enriched by the sauce and cheese topping. I slightly preferred the Terras Gauda with this dish, it was pleasantly weightier enough to meet the heaviness of the dish and diffuse it. I could still taste the wine. The Martin Codax may have faded slightly next to this dish, in comparison.
But it was perfect for the Moqueca Mixto, loaded with cooked just-enough seafood and heady coconut flavor. Here I wasn’t expecting any wine to assert itself past the coconut fat on our tongues, but that slightly effervescent finish of the Martin Codax zipped through in an entertaining way.
We finished with a trio of Spanish cheeses and no surprise, the wines made a great comeback. It was a celebration - on the floor of Aqua Dulce where the sloshed friends-of-Chef were still dancing, and in our mouths.
Since the MARTIN CODAX is ubiquitious in wine shops in New York and about 25% lower-priced, I plan to have at least half a case on hand this summer for light dinners and hostess gifts. The Terras Gauda, however, broadened my Albariño experience. I will stash a few bottles in the back of my white wine cooler for further experimentation. It did so well with the Brazilian stew, I’m tempted to try it with mom’s South Indian sambar next!
