Rias Baixas Albarino for a Cheesemonger
Thinking of Albariño brings happiness to all my senses. From its superbly well-balanced acidity to its rich lingering fruit tones, and that marine tang that is reminiscence of the spectacular Galician coastline. Its structure is such that it allows the wine to navigate through varied foodstuffs. Although its name might not be the most recognized in the American market, its luscious and fruit-forward nuances continues to steal hearts.
On a rainy spring night that looked more like a late fall soaker, I got together with several friends to enjoy glasses of three different Albariños with various items from the menu at Casellula. Not only did I find the mineral quality of the wines to intensify the tender juicy notes of a pulled pork sandwich, but it also it rounded off the brine in an olive cocktail, and potatoes seemed to melt into the fruit layers of the wines. When it came to spicy chorizo, no other wine paired better than the As Laxas 2007. Since our place of gathering is notoriously known for its cheese program, and being a cheese-nerd myself, I jumped at the opportunity to find cheese pairings with the Albariños. Again, the fruit forwardness of the wine exalted the harder mountain cheeses, and the slight effervescence of Albariño cut right through the creamier, fattier ones, while rounding off the saltiness of the blue, leaving the palate longing for more. Time seems to fly when such a gastronomic extravaganza happens, but all great things have to invariably come to an end. So umbrellas opened, and stomachs full, we venture into the rainy night trying to hail a cab and reel back into the bustle of Manhattan.
—————————————————-- Waldemar Albrecht
Waldemar Albrecht works as a Fromager at Manhattan’s Artisanal Fromagerie and Bistro, where he also has the pleasure of extolling the virtues of fine cheeses at the Bisto’s cheese classes.
